Last night — my last night in Florence — was accidentally one of the best nights of my trip.

Inside i Visacci, stolen from ViviFirenze

A bunch of us — total strangers, for all practical purposes — were wandering around Florence around 7 o’clock looking for a place to eat. In search of a dinner to satisfy both our stomachs and wallets, we stumbled across a tiny bar, i Visacci, with a bright, unique look. The interior walls were decorated with red stripes and vibrant artwork. On the sound system was an awesome mix of downtempo tunes mixed with latin jazz — seemingly rare for a country that adores American oldies and Euro techno. And the deal was this: drink, and we’ll feed you for free. Salami, ham, bruschetta, fresh veggies, various dips, breads and the obligatory olive plate. Fresh, accidentally healthy and honestly delicious. Two hours of truly memorable conversation later, we left full of food and drink (surprisingly tasty Italian red beer, Moretti Rosso), having spent less money on everything than a guided-tour jackass might spend on appetizers alone. All in all, a great experience.

Lake Como, Italy

Today I left the bustling Florentian urban jungle for a day of relaxation and recovery in the Italian countryside. A three hour train ride north brought me to Como, perched on beautiful Lake Como. Most backpackers skip the Italian lakes area, leaving the mountains and shores to rich Italian weekenders and the occasional smart traveler (yours truly). Towns along Lake Como are small and charming, including Bellagio, namesake of the Vegas hotel. In my mind, this — not Venice — is romantic Italia.

Como by night

I also chose to avoid hostel life for the day, checking into the two star Hotel Posta for the night at a decent rate. I have the room to myself, including a television, which has already provided a few laughs. Someday I will post a roundup of Italian primetime. I have already seen more Italian shop-at-home tv (anything from work gloves to Persian rugs) than I would hope to see in a lifetime.

At any rate, I am gonna ditch the computer and go walk around the lake. This place is too beautiful to waste. Four train rides tomorrow and I’ll be in Switzerland!