Dubrovnik, Croatia

Welcome to Dubrovnik, the pinnacle of Dalmatia and one of the most beautiful towns I’ve seen in my life. Near the south end of the Croatian coast, this is the farthest south I have ever been in Europe. Driving here from Split, weaving back and forth around the coast, in and out of little seaside villages and overlooking the mountainous Dalmatian Islands, I knew I was in a special place: One minute you’re in the white stone hills of southern Utah and then you round a bend and come across miles of terraced fields and swear you’re in Thailand. One more turn and you’re overlooking a series of lakes as far as the eye can see… Minnesota with mountains? Just gorgeous. The drive also took us through a small stretch of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which would have been unrecognizable except the tiny border station and ten minutes of different words on the road signs.

Downtown Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik has been called one of the ten best destinations in Eastern Europe and I believe it — thanks, Lonely Planet. Walking around, the Mediterranean climate suggests that you’re in Italy or Greece, but the culture seems a little more in-line. The old town, similar to Split’s, is enclosed by centuries-old ruins and is completely car-free. The pavement consists of large rock tiles, shiny and very slippery from hundreds of years of traffic. Music echoes and voices carry around the tiny corridors that snake between buildings, up stairs and to the water.

Dubrovnik from above

My plan is to relax and do as much wandering around town as possible. Last night, my friend Serge and I walked down to the old town for dinner, which became a Dalmatian feast of fish soup and seafood pasta. We opted for the scenic route home, which became a two hour excursion up and down stairways, winding down narrow streets hugged with citrus orchards and dodging the occasional Vespa. At one point, we walked past an ourdoor movie theatre screening something unrecognizable, but we couldn’t find an unlocked door and kept walking.

Dubrovnik’s hills

Two more nights at our bed and breakfast here in Dubrovnik (complete with a balcony overlooking the hills… pinch me), a few nights on the islands, and then back north. A spell in Slovenia, another night each in Salzburg and Prague, and then the last week hits quick: Dresden, Amsterdam and Paris… and then home. Hard to believe that I’ve been living out of a bag for more than two months. Even harder to believe that I’ll be home in less than 20 days. And of course I’m already planning my next trip back.

Stooped in Split

A few closing thoughts on Split that I jotted down a few nights ago:

Stooped on the foot of a statue in the middle of the old town square in early evening, I witness the essence of European life in full bloom. Groups of men and women sit at outdoor cafes, drinking coffee or beer before they head home for dinner. Teens come home from the beach, with bright towels and wet hair, leaving sandy footprints on the polished rock tile square. Young kids play soccer for hours in the middle of it all, right in front of the town’s museum, slipping and sliding on the sidewalk like the pigeons do here. Men set up a stage and chairs for a live opera concert to take place later that night. And here I sit, surrounded by centuries-old Roman ruins, watching it all come together… wondering just how I got here and why I ever have to leave.